| A recent horseback riding trip took an | | | | far between, and the half-paved road turned to |
| unexpected turn - cowboy style, when I was | | | | mud and puddles. So, of course, we decided to |
| visiting some friends in Liberia, Guanacaste. | | | | practice our trotting and galloping skills. Costa |
| I had been slipping my friend clues for weeks to | | | | Rican horses are bred for their stylish footwork, |
| let him know I would like him to ask his friend, | | | | and luckily you don't have to be a horse trainer to |
| who owns a large farm near Barrio La Cruz, if we | | | | make it happen, it's more like autopilot. |
| could go horseback riding one day. After agreeing | | | | As I began to wonder where we could be |
| to my request, the day had finally arrived. | | | | headed, it was soon revealed that our destination |
| We took a taxi out to the farm, opening and | | | | was yet another clandestine bar, of course. This |
| closing random wooden and barbed wire gates | | | | one was really cool, and reminded me of the |
| along the muddy road. When we arrived, the two | | | | ghost town homes in the west that look like they |
| owners sat on stumps in the feeding pen, wildling | | | | were made out of pre-burnt wood. The outdoor |
| away at anything they could reach (sticks, orange | | | | seating area was covered with fresh palm leaves, |
| peels, their teeth, etc.). They were extremely | | | | half of them still bright green in color. |
| humble despite being some of the richest men in | | | | This time we got the super traditional treatment, |
| Liberia thanks to their large land holdings. | | | | of glasses filled with ice that was chipped off a |
| As two friends saddled and prepared the horses, | | | | breadbox sized ice cube. Oh yea, Costa Ricans |
| I sat with a third friend making small talk and | | | | drink their beer with ice. It grows on you. |
| feeding oranges to the purple-tongued cows that | | | | One tradition that had been going on for well over |
| shared the pen with us. After two hours, we | | | | 100 years at that particular bar was the use of |
| were finally ready to saddle up and be on our | | | | the three outhouses, set precariously close to the |
| way. | | | | seating area. If you have been following this story |
| After 15 minutes of strolling down the same road | | | | closely, you will understand me when I say that |
| by which we had entered the farm, it began to | | | | holding it was not an option. So I was the only |
| rain heavily. We were conveniently directly in front | | | | one in our party of four desperate enough to |
| of the neighborhood bar, Los Bragueros (which I | | | | test out the turn of the century facilities. Ick! No |
| was told means "the dirty underwear," but I am | | | | need to dredge up that memory any further. |
| skeptical) so we covered up the horses and | | | | When we left this pleasant little 1800s hovel, we |
| headed inside. Three beers later, the mini | | | | were met with the setting sun at our backs, |
| rainstorm had passed, so we hopped back on the | | | | which soon dropped to nothing, leaving us in utter |
| horses and off we went. | | | | darkness. All additional light sources were blotted |
| I did forget to mention there were actually three | | | | out by the dense tree cover on either side of the |
| horses, four people and one bicycle. | | | | road, which made me silently relive the story of |
| We continued around the outskirts of the small | | | | the headless horseman in my mind. |
| town for another 20 minutes until we reached a | | | | In keeping with the theme of the night, we tried |
| second bar. At this point I was beginning to realize | | | | out one last clandestine bar on our way home, |
| that it probably wasn't just a coincidence. This bar, | | | | but the owner was already enjoying an alcohol |
| however, was a special bar. | | | | induced slumber, and we were met with |
| In Costa Rica it is called a "clandestine", which, as | | | | unpleasant and awkwardly dramatic gestures, |
| it sounds, means a clandestine bar that continues | | | | yelling and barking (from his three dogs). |
| to operate in a rural area without a proper license. | | | | We raced home in the darkness, and let out sighs |
| The setting here was gorgeous with the sweeping | | | | of relief one at a time as we slid off the saddles |
| neon green fields set against the deep bluish | | | | and returned the horses to their stables. My night |
| green of the hills in the distance. This time we | | | | did let out on a sad note however when after |
| stayed only to enjoy two beers each, and were | | | | being instructed to feed the pigs, I was told I had |
| back on whatever course we had started on. | | | | just given them their last supper. |
| At this point the friendly homes were fewer and | | | | |